Travel

Portraits of Seville by Camille McGriff

*A curatorial note on the study of people.

Even though I’ve always drawn, drawing has not always been my thing. In elementary school I’d write for fun, and writing was my thing. Drawing was just the musical accompaniment to the main show. But now drawing is my thing, and has become as integral to the writing as the protagonist. 

I joined a figure drawing group when I arrived in Seville, naively thinking that the human study was going to be something like the caricature-like gestures people of people you might find in an urban sketch. Wrong. This was a Renaissance study of the human form in the nude. My acute foreignness has never been so apparent than on my first night in that rooftop studio in Barrio Santa Cruz surrounded by seasoned old artists sketching a nude model. 

Capturing the human form has never, before now, been my ultimate goal nor my favorite thing to do; I always feel like I can write the human condition better than I can draw it, and it is just flat-out difficult to draw a human. Well, that was all the more reason to give it my most valiant attempt. For ten minutes at a time in the Ático studio I can capture the essence of the nudes—the Venus, the heroin addict, the Rembrandt model, the pornography actress—and in the statue hall at the University I can depict them accurately in all their shapes and shadows.

But the elusive, urban human form still evades me. They turn out like cartoons with mismatched body parts of clashing proportions, one’s forehead mashed into an inch between eyebrow and hairline with another’s head shrinking like a popped balloon into the recesses of her coat. Even though I try to draw the person in the exact moment I see them, it is not an accurate depiction because the drawing ends after the motion, and by the time I look up to get a second glance, the form has always changed (not to mention the awkward creepiness when, on the third or fourth glance, the subject comes to the horrifying realization that they’re being watched). My best urban sketches of humans are a series of gestural loops and lines, the way I depicted a brass band on the street a couple of days ago.

A few weeks ago, I developed a method for remembering the person and the one single moment by identifying three notable things about their appearance so I could parcel it away in my memory. For the girl standing in front of me waiting at the crosswalk: pearl headband, painted jean jacket, tulle skirt. For a child I saw on her way to school this morning: fur-lined hood over her head, jewel-stud earrings, tiny backpack. For the schoolgirl walking down the Calle Asunción yesterday: olive green knee socks, thick black eyebrows, and red school vest. She also had a shiny chocolate lab with green eyes, but that counts more for the dog than for her. 

That little developmental trick hasn’t helped me much with drawing my people, but has definitely refined my observation. Take the man sitting across from me at the table: wet, chin-length hair, checkered scarf, mustached. The boy sitting next to him: green Barbour jacket, long nose, gingham shirt. The woman who always makes my coffee: black hair, middle part, pinned away from her face, big dark eyes, tight lips. It’s a way to see, a way to remember who and what you’ve seen, and it’s also a different way of urban sketching people. Lists of people line up like dominoes in my journal. Baby carriage, sweater vest, Oxfords. Fur coat, bright silk neck scarf, cane. Rain coat, joggers, spectacles. Pink coat, short gray hair with a side swoop, Longchamp backpack.

Baile de Chiquititas. Pen and India ink on notebook paper. 17 October 2019.

Slowly, I’m learning to fall in love with the people of Seville. I walk down the Calle Asunción and find two little girls in matching sets of pink and purple roller skates, knee pads, elbow pads, and helmets collapsing all over the bike lane like limp noodles, giggling as their anxious, doting dad picks them up, only to watch them fall over again.

Picture a teeny-tiny little girl in a cap sleeve dress, sitting on a ledge carved out of the bank, kicking her heels against the wall. She reminds me of the “Almendrita” (little almond) Spanish bedtime tale, because she’s so endearingly small. Think of a place where no one has earbuds. No one is scared to hear their own thoughts; to hear their heart beat. 

Portrait of a Gentle Soul. Pen and india ink on notebook paper. 11 October 2019. 

Portrait of a man in his late thirties, rendered here in profile with strong hands and a beard, a striped shirt painted in thick white gouache cuffed at his elbows. He notices a cart-horse alone in the gentle day-glow of Impressionistic light, and it is uncomfortable, flies swarming its nose and foaming at the mouth. The man earns the animal’s trust with strokes on its soft nose, lifting its lips and readjusting the bit to a more comfortable position. The gentle soul nuzzles the man at his chest, rousing a smile before he exits the frame.

Picasso, Pablo. Woman in Thought. Spray paint on mirror. 2019.

The Woman in Thought drips down the face of a mirrored metro sign outside the Puerta de Jerez, and at night her green graffiti visage glows fluorescent and eery, like the eyes of Dr. T.J. Eckleburg or even God himself. She has a damaged upper lip, scarred into a position of perpetual inquisition, and her brow is eternally furrowed around intelligent jewel-like eyes. A drip, a flaw of the medium, suggests an electric tear punctuating her perplexing countenance, but the Woman in Thought withholds judgement and, though amongst the crowd, she watches over it, omniscient and all-knowing. The choice of canvas reflects the different perspectives she sees and protects, creating a third dimension out of two-dimensional space. She is almost raised from the surface, her continuity creating life out of line.

The Evening Cigarette. Gouache, acrylic, and watercolor on wood. 2019.

This is a portrait of my host father, Guillermo Cole, when he leans against the terrace balcony, framed by the sunset peaking through our surrounding buildings. This is a portrait of Guillermo Cole across the table at lunch; every day a painting in gouache acrylic layered one on top of the other. This is a portrait of Guillermo Cole peaking around the bookshelf corner with an orange and a knife, about to test me in my orange-peeling abilities. The acrylic and gouache is layered thick onto the canvas, impasto blocks of color like a George W. Bush portrait painting. You can see each brushstroke in his face: swathes of cadmium red from his nose, blocks of opera pink constructing his jawline. Heavy strokes of blue lie beneath the green and white lines that make up his upper lip. 

I once had a professor warn me about the danger of too much line. It’s all about atmospheric perspective: they look like a cluster of perfectly orderly details, but when you take a few steps away, they fail to hold up, and the picture falls apart. On the contrary, this portrait takes a cue from the Impressionists. I put my nose to the wall, staring into three thick strokes of ivory white, forest green, and violet, and see nothing. I close my eyes and take three steps back. Open again. It’s my father in his truest form, loose and wonky, vivid and Expressionistic. Rather than the way I’ve been taught to see, I see him the way he is. 

Earlier on in the semester, we used to rub each other the wrong way a lot. He’d make a blustery claim about racism in the U.S., then defame Arab immigrants in Andalusia, and I, a newly-minted college student from the U.S. couldn’t stand it. I’d complain in private, while the man with the cigarette orbited from the kitchen to the table to the terrace, languid revolutions in my life that slowly drove me crazy. Racism is wrong. Homophobia is wrong. The ideas perpetuated by nationalists and the global right is dangerous, threatening propaganda. 

But the longer I’m away from the U.S. the more I realize that everyone is truly different. That sounds like a stupid statement, coming from someone who sang “Jesus Loves All the Little Children of the World” on the church lawn with the rest of the Sunday school classes every year when I was young. Not only are we all different, but we are all flawed—and it’s wrong to think that I can write someone off in one sweeping motion for their opinions that conflict with mine. I, of all people, should know that humans are more complex than that. Every morning Guillermo stands at the terrace door and sniffs the air. “Ah, the nose of the Navajo Indian says it’s going to rain today.” He laughs, I smile. Together we orbit each other in a rosy glow of contentment and mutual admiration. I like him very much.

Now it is siesta, and the electric glow of a humming TV no one’s listening too flicks about in the reflection of his glasses. His wispy bird feather hair is swept across his sleeping face in a mix of Russian blue and raw sienna, darkened by a dab of neutral tint and a dry-brush fracture of zinc white splintering from his temples. He’s in a Prussian azure sweater with ovals and triangles of violet marking wrinkles; before him, a vaguely-rendered copper green gesture of a cigarette box, paired with an English red packet of rolling papers. From the confident brush strokes that make up his figure we move our gaze to the terrace at night, after a cup of green tea and saccharine. A mosaic of Paul Klee watercolor blues are a patchwork of the sky; the glow of the balconies across the way illuminate his silhouette like stars. When he turns back to face me, the cigarette lights a sweep of cadmium yellow deep highlight on his nose; his eyes crinkle into a smile.

I remember a very feminist high school history teacher explaining that if we—she was addressing everyone, but she really meant women—were interrupted, we should simply continue speaking. That’s a tactic that works well at my family dinner table when everyone is always interrupting one another regardless of gender. When Guillermo would cut me off in the beginning, finally killing off a mortally butchered Spanish sentence, I’d fume about Spanish machismo and internalized misogyny. Even now, I’ll try to jump in during one of his pauses, but oftentimes it’s not a lull in conversation but an occasion for him to gather his thoughts. In a moment of busy brow-furrowing and a second of blue thought, he’ll construct the next segment of his soliloquy before continuing on. It’s not a blustery steamroller of a ramble, but rather like a weaver who stops at the end of a line before tacitly turning the threads onto the next. 

From the kitchen, to the chair, to the balcony. Kitchen, chair, balcony. One light source: the window. Now we’re on the street, bundled from our toes to our noses. I’ve met my parents at la tienda, their store, and now we’re on a paseo through Seville. Down the Calle Asunción, across Puente de San Telmo, the light radiating from the Guadalquivir with a comforting golden hum—it’s acrylic and gouache slathered onto wood. Standing in the gallery, I reach forward and touch it when the attendant’s not looking, and it’s abrasive, rough, pulsing with life. The smoke of the evening cigarette trails atop the green river water like the muddy brushstrokes of Sorolla, the light fractured by spires like Cezanne. Torre de Sevilla, Torre de Oro, Torre de la Giralda, and the towers of the Plaza de España. I’m arm in arm with my host mother, and the man with the cigarette walks in solitude a few steps ahead. 

The silent acknowledgement of each other when we sit across the table. Side by side ironing our shirts in the perpendicular rays of the kitchen sunlight. Clustered in the corner after family dinner with the brothers-in-law, me drinking rum and him standing  at the window to blow the cigarette smoke out of the apartment. The smoke pixelates into a fine mosaic of French ultramarine and Antwerp blue before melting into pieces of a fractured frame à la Nall. It’s splattered with permanent  magenta, rose madder genuine, and cadmium scarlet.

I think of my day in the Museo de Bellas Artes, surrounded by a room of Spanish Impressionists. If you stand on the bench in the center of the wide, white room, the looming figures on the canvases leap to life. But when you stand eye to eye with them, claiming their personal space as your own, they disappear into a sea of rough brushstrokes, the composition of which make them who they are appears when you stand back. That’s all people; that is my host father, Guillermo Cole.

36 Hours on Nantucket by Camille McGriff

It’s not the Nobadeer Nightmare of Fourth of July debauchery, nor the native land for every New England Chad. Find Nantucket past Labor Day and she’ll be ripe as a Massachusetts peach.

Cobbled streets cleared and beaches still warm with lingering summer sun, the perfect time to be on Nantucket arrives with fall. This Indian summer sweet spot misses the crowds, but catches all the best restaurants and stores of summer (think raw bar at Cru and sales at Skinny Dip) before they shutter for the winter on Columbus Day weekend. So if you’re feeling a long weekend coming on after a few interminable post-summer workdays in the trenches, touching down on Nantucket will no doubt be the perfect last hurrah.

Friday, 3 pm: Arrival Aperitif

Enter by ferry if you can (a high speed ferry arrives on Nantucket every thirty minutes between the Steamship Authority or the Hyline, leaving from the Cape, New York, or New Bedford), which offers a panoramic view of the island from Great Point to Madaket as you enter and passes by the idyllic Brant Point lighthouse as it enters Nantucket Harbor. But if you’re a bit further than ferry distance, ACK from the air works beautifully, and cheap, 45-minute flights from Boston and New York City make their rounds on Cape Air as well as new flights from Charlotte and DC from American Airlines. The ferry puts you in town, while you can Uber or taxi from the airport into town, sandwiched between Surfside and Nobadeer beaches. 

Check into any one of Nantucket’s signature cedar-shakes-with-white-trim B&B’s in town, like the Ship’s Inn, Barnacle Inn, or the Carlisle, all at the top of Main Street, for a get-to-know-the-hoteliers experience in a 17th century house (Nantucket, founded in 1629, boasts the largest number of 17th-century homes per mile in the U.S.). But if you’re feeling a more cocktails-and-cornhole-on-the-lawn vibe (or even just a view of Nantucket Harbor), try the Nantucket Hotel or the White Elephant, conveniently located a block away from the Steamship Authority (White Elephant can also meet you at the port and collect your luggage). 

If charcuterie on the ferry didn’t make it onto your itinerary, walk head directly to aptly-named Straight Wharf Restaurant, situated at the end of the wharf where the Hyline ferry docks. Charcuterie and a rotating menu of tapas, like warm goat cheese and asparagus smeared on toasted baguette drizzled with balsamic, will clear any inkling of hungry grouchiness. But if the late summer Nantucket sun is making you swelter beneath your slacks, head to the Gazebo Tavern just across the patio from Straight Wharf for one of their famous mudslides, the alcoholic ice cream beverage that creates in-body air conditioning. 

7 pm: Step to the Sunset

Most hotels and B&B’s offer complimentary bicycles (they’re the way to see the island), so when you finish at the Nantucket Boat Basin hit the cobbles with a light beach picnic (White Elephant and Ship’s Inn pack picnics, complete with rosé, right into your bike basket) and head to Steps Beach, one of the most famous beaches on the island for sunset viewing. Cheers to the clementine and lilac pastel sky, the wind in the rustling seagrass, and the dark magenta roses lining the path as you descend—Steps deserves the hype. When stars start to peek through the violet sky and the moon rises above the dunes, pedal back to town to prepare for your evening.

9 pm: Prerogative in Proprietor’s

When dressing for dinner at Proprietor’s, think dinner party at your friend’s summer house—and when you arrive, request seating upstairs in an utter jewel box of gem-colored wallpaper, patterned tablecloths, and mismatched china adorning the tables, all aglow with the flicker of candles and fresh flowers in mercury glass vases. And the family-style menu is no less impressive: Friendly to both sharing and pocketbooks, it rotates weekly based on fresh harvests from Nantucket’s own Bartlett Farm. For two, order four to five dishes (all similarly priced) and pop a bottle of wine as the plates start rolling: From bluefish focaccia to tomato, burrata, watermelon, and mint salad, no dish will disappoint. 

10:30 pm: Ice Cream Amble

The Juice Bar remains one of the busiest ice cream stands during the high season, and though in mid-July the after-dinner line wraps well around the block, the wait is well worth it—though in the fall, no one waits. Sample the daily flavor, like coffee cake or strawberry wedding cake, but if you’re feeling indecisive, you can’t go wrong with a scoop of green monster (a favorite among Nantucket children that mixes chunks of cookie dough in mint ice cream) in a hand-rolled waffle cone and dipped in rainbow sprinkles. 

For post-dinner perambulations, head to the wharf just at the end of the street near the Steamship Authority to study the rippling moonlight. At night, Nantucket is a harbor full of mercury glass, and for dazzling stars without the light pollution, walk around the corner to Brant Point Lighthouse, where you can view the Milky Way and every inch of sky is dotted with light. 

Saturday, 11:00 am: or, Brunch

There’s no need to hit the town early with a late sunrise and lingering Grey Lady mist, so  sleep in and hit or, The Whale for brunch, a brand new spot on island that earned high praise in its first season. They do light and casual best: from the daily doughnut to avocado toast and asparagus salad, or, The Whale makes the most out of a late summer bounty.

12:00 pm: Pack Provisions

Get your bills ready at this cash-only sandwich stand on Straight Wharf at the bottom of Main Street, where you’ll stock up for an afternoon at the beach. Provisions specializes in original sandwiches like the Turkey Terrific, Sassy Farmer, and the Mantucket. All are winners (spring for Portuguese bread made by Something Natural bakery, an almost-sweet white bread that can only be found on island). Pair it with a Something Natural tea or lemonade and hit the cobbles by bike; by now the beaches are warming up.

1:15 pm: Sweater No Sweat

Late in the Nantucket summer when the weather has almost turned cool but the sea breeze hasn’t died yet, you’ll need to pick a downwind beach out of the wind for the warmest possible day. The beautiful thing about Nantucket beaches is that out of 82 miles of coastline, most beaches are open to the public, so picking a beach is really just determined by the wind and how far you’re willing to bike.

Pack a sweater just in case of chilly wind (Skinny Dip’s Ellsworth and Ivey “Nantucket” sweaters will do), and if there’s a southerly, bike toward the Nantucket Sound to Dionis Beach, with panoramic views of the island reaching from Madaket  to Great Point—on very clear days you can even see the little white toothpick signifying the secluded lighthouse. If the breeze is filling from the north, however, bike to Madequecham, a beach marked by a secluded cove of rustling white pines. If you must end your beach sojourn with ice cream, bike to the island’s eastern village of Siasconset, known as “the family beach,” for minimal surf and possible seal sitings. Polish off your beach day with ice cream at the ‘Sconset Market and pick up anything from pepper jelly to cherries at this proclaimed “fancy grocery”—it’s not rare to catch clerks slow dancing behind the counter to Frank Sinatra as they replenish the grocery’s supply of fresh scones. Too tired to peddle back into town? The Wave, Nantucket’s bus system, stops in ‘Sconset every 30 minutes, and with a $2 fare, you and your bike can hitch a ride back into town.

7 pm: Get Nauti

The Nautilus own the moniker of “most famous restaurant on Nantucket” for a reason, and after Labor Day, you won’t be waiting on the sidewalk when reservations open jockeying for a spot on their list. With influences from Japanese street food and Spanish tapas, Chef Liam Mackey’s dishes are worth it at any size or prize—small plates made for sharing could make up a meal, while larger parties can order one of the “table feasts” that could include a whole roast peking duck. Steeped in New England seafood tradition, tapas like the lobster tostada and yellowfin tuna lettuce wraps cannot be missed.

And the fun doesn’t stop with the food—even seasoned pros need to have a look at the eclectic, locally inspired drink menu with cheeky names like “Ack Nauti” and “That’s a Lot of Dong” (its price is listed in the namesake Vietnamese currency at the end of the description). But for a good time with a larger party, order a porron, a secret concoctions where patrons order only an alcohol base. The drink itself comes in a glass vessel reminiscent of a genie’s lamp, and crowds from Nantucket college kids to Elin Hilderbrand all enjoy the folly of pouring the delicious drink into the mouths of friends.

11 pm: Back of the Backbar 

Ventuno Restaurant is one of Nantucket’s classics, but at night its vine-wrapped back patio is transformed into Backbar, a dive bar for the older crowd on island to get sloshy. Beat the drag of spilled drinks and sticky floors by heading upstairs into Ventuno’s almost-secret wine bar, where drinks come in glasses instead of plastic and you sure won’t find people stumbling into the bushes. It’s far and away the best wine on Nantucket—everywhere from Napa to Argentina to France is represented.

12:30 pm: Not Your Typical Club

Head back to Main Street for Club Car, where a piano bar has for the first time ever been made classy. Think New Orleans street car rumbling down St. Charles, but add a bar serving top-notch cocktails and a piano in the caboose. With Nantucket locals arm in arm singing cheesy piano bar classics like “Tiny Dancer” and “American Pie,” even if you’re a few nauti dogs in at this point (Club Car’s aperol answer to vodka and lemonade), it’s a night you’re not soon to forget.

Sunday, 10 am: Every Pressing Moment

Though Lemon Press café on Main is infamous for its expensive fair, the inventive smoothies paired with healthy cooler items like lemon meringue overnight oats make it worth the stop in. Sit on a bench outside while you eat, and then sip your smoothie as you stroll down the main drag. Stop at Erica Wilson for perfectly curated women’s fashion that brings Paris and Milan seamlessly to island time, with items like Roller Rabbit collaborations and their signature sky-blue Nantucket Island medallions. For the traditional island clothing experience, visit Murray’s Toggery Shop, where tailors still fit men in their “Nantucket Reds,” faded red canvas pants that are hemmed to the tops of penny loafers and waist bands are embroidered with initials in sail flags. This time of year your pants will be tailored after lunch, so walk over to Fresh, the liquor store-cum-sandwich shop that churns out everything from poké bowls to BLTs, all while thumping disco music from behind the stacks of Fishers Island Lemonades. 

Take your lunch down to the wharf and dock walk for a little bit in the Nantucket Boat Basin, gandering at some yachts that charter for more than $900,000/week. Then take a look out at the harbor, filled with classic wooden yachts and day racers (many designed by H.H. Herrschoft), including a fleet of Allerions, the classic boat of Nantucket.

As the sharpness of the sea breeze signifies an approaching winter while you step back on the ferry or plane, you’ll be sure to savor the last few moments of summer like biting into the last summer peach: a twinge of sadness at the end, but the overwhelming perfection that took all summer to refine.